Sunday, June 30, 2013

GLIMPSES OF JAPAN


Our touring is officially over, but that doesn't mean we're finished sharing some of our adventures.  As one person put it, we really did have an "authentic Japanese immersion" experience.  So many varied adventures.  We were never in a tour group on a tour bus, but did all the travel on our own, planned with us by Global Base Tour group, who contracts with Inside Japan Tours.  We recommend them highly!

Linda and I were good travel companions, with similar interests and energy.  We were mostly quite lucky with the weather.  It rained some, but mostly the days we needed to be out and about, it wasn't too bad.  And some days were sunny and a bit warm.  Our last day, which was mostly on the Shinkansen (bullet) train, it poured rain, but didn't affect us (except we didn't get to see Mt. Fugi, as we had hoped.)  The Shinkansen was great fun to ride -- sometimes going 200 mph but it was smooth and comfortable.  Tourists like us can buy a Japan Rail Pass in US to use in Japan but locals are not eligible for it.  It was expensive, but it was great for us because we could get on and off the various trains without extra charges, and since the Shinkansen is quite pricey, it didn't cost us anything extra to take trips wherever we wanted.  
Shinkansen
The train stations are something else.  So many shops and restaurants in most of them--it's like a big shopping mall and much more impressive than our airports.  We've appreciated the artistry in the way things are displayed, whether in the train stations or shops or covered outdoor markets.  Things are packaged so exquisitely.  Fancy wrapped candies and sweets.  Full displays of vegetables and fruits, meat and fish, dresses and shoes, handicrafts and touristy items -- all very tastefully arranged.  
Plastic food advertising menu
Packaged sweets in train station

Meat & Produce in one of the many mall markets

Meat & Produce in one of the many mall markets

The restaurants often display their menu with plastic "food" outside their door.  Sometimes we would have to ask the waiter to come outside so we could point to one of the food items, since we couldn't read the Japanese.  We were mostly very pleased with our dining adventures.  Loved the okonomiyaki -- a pancake-like batter with vegetables or meat that we cooked right at our own table grill.  Really enjoyed the sukiyaki -- cooked in a pot at our table.   The soba noodles were delicious.  The tempura the best.  Linda loved the sushi/sashimi, but have to admit I didn't try it.  Vegetable-meat stir fry, rice and miso soup quite often.  Yakatori (grilled skewers or meat) was great. Lots of fresh or pickled vegetables but not much fruit although they did see it in the markets.  We were pleasantly surprised that meals weren't as expensive as we'd been warned, but then we didn't order sobe beef or go to expensive restaurants.  We especially liked the Japanese-style breakfasts that every hotel served until our last 5 days in Kyoto, but then they had good coffee and an English newspaper, so we kept going despite the same menu every day of boring baked eggs, little sausages, etc.

Okonomiyaki

Sukiyaki

Soba noodles/tempura
OK, besides food....  we had wonderful touring experiences.  Local guides were contracted for us, and were mostly excellent.  One day, though, our guide was a Canadian former soccer star who has been living in Japan for 20 years.  He is an expert on geisha culture, and took us through the backstreets of Kyoto, often sharing how much he enjoyed going out at night with drinking buddies and geishas.  He "got mixed up" on the tour he was scheduled to do for us one day so the tour company rescheduled.  Linda and I suspect the 2:30 a.m. drinking with geishas may have had something to do with it.  He gave us a DVD he produced about geishas--if you're interested I can share it.  He is also listed in the credits as a consultant for the movie "Memories of a Geisha."   He took us to the "navel" rock marking the original center of Kyoto.  Nearby was a sculpture indicating the origin of ikebana
Geishas (dressed for tourists but not real ones)


Guide (Peter McIntosh) pointing out original center of Kyoto



same area as start of ikebana

We went to several shrines and gardens in Kyoto, but we didn't get to all 1600 of them!  We especially loved the day our guide took us on a "Secret Gardens" tour and to the Golden Pavillion.

Gardens at shrines

Gardens at shrines

Golden pavillion

Ayako Kiyono, our favorite guide in Kyoto who works for Inside Japan

We were quite interested in the architecture and city street views.  
We went to a re-created farming village one day -- Hida Village outside Takayama, that had many old thatched roof structures, and a display of the silk worm production in that area.  Takayama was one of our favorite places.
Saw the Sky Tower in Tokyo but didn't go up.  Did go up in the tower at Kyoto and had a nice view.

White castle in Kawazana

Shrine gates

Thatched roof at Hida Village

Cocoons at Hida Village



Nice view from Kyoto tower

We did a couple side trips from Kyoto.  Went to Nara where there are many shrines and Buddhist temples.  The deer were everywhere, including trying to get to my green tea ice cream cone.

We didn't go in to the temple with the large Buddha in Nara, but I did go twice to Kamikura (20 minutes by train from where Kristen & Chris live in Yokosuka) to see the 2nd largest Buddha in Japan, if I'm remembering correctly.


We went to Hiroshima on the Shinkansen from Kyoto one day.  An emotionally heavy day, but glad we were able to spend time in the Peace Park and museum.  One of the displays is of a clock that marked the 8:15 Aug 6th atomic bomb -- and then pictures of the damage it did.  I'm not including some of the pictures of the badly burned people or remnants of their clothing.  Too horrible to look at.  The Peace Park had a sculpture for the children and the many beautiful origami crane chains people have sent from all over the world praying for peace.  The original cranes that Sadaka folded were in the museum.  (History: Sadako Sasaki, who lived inHiroshima at the time of the atomic bombing, developed leukemia from the radiation and spent her time in a nursing home creating origami (folded paper) cranes in hope of making a thousand of them. She was inspired to do so by the Japanese legend that one who created athousand origami cranes would be cured by the gods. Her wish was simply to live. However, she managed to fold only 644 cranes before she became too weak to fold any more, and died on 25 October 1955 in the morning. Her friends and family helped finish her dream by folding the rest of the cranes, which were buried with Sadako.)

Crane chains

Sadako's origami cranes 

We loved looking at the countryside from train or bus.  The most interesting views were from the bus from Matsumoto to Takayama.
View from bus
 Lots of hills, trees, rivers, mountain lakes.  We had hoped to get a view of Mt. Fugi on another train ride, but the weather was rainy & cloudy so never did get to see it.  Next time!

There will definitely be a "next time."   I've got a precious reason to return to Japan, beyond touring the country itself.  I'll add another blog before I leave with more Abigail pictures!  She's the most precious thing in the world, so have to add at least one here!
Abigail


Sunday, June 23, 2013

Traveling Japan


Linda Carroll and I have been on a tour of Japan arranged through Global Basecamps Tour company. They planned our lodging, transportation, daily activity suggestions, and a few personal guided tours in Tokyo,  Nagano, Matzumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa and now Kyoto.   We've had amazing experiences!   We've eaten more local food specialties than we've ever heard of.  We've gotten used to sake at dinner rather than wine. Linda has enjoyed sushi--me not so much.   We've both loved the ramen and soba noodles, seaweed and miso soup, rice and pickled vegetables plus all sorts of other foods for our hotel breakfasts and other meals.   Even had salad for breakfasts.

We've traveled by train (terrific transportation system), including bullet train, subway, bus or taxi--and lots of walking.   So far we haven't gotten hopelessly lost.  You can set your watch by the punctuality of the trains so it's been easier to get around than I expected, plus Linda is a good navigator.

Every day has been an adventure with new experiences.  We've seen lots of Shrines and Buddhist temples.  I even went to a 5:30 am Buddhist monk's morning prayers/ritual-chants when we stayed in lodging advertised as monk's lodging next to the temple but never saw monks at the lodging.

We stayed in two different Japanese-style inns, sleeping on futon/tatami mats, drinking tea and eating Japanese feasts from low tables while sitting on floor.  Fantastic food.  We also experienced the Japanese communal bathing--women and men separately of couse!   We were asked the first time if we wanted to use the bathroom before or after dinner.  Imagine our shock having to make that choice, especially since it was down a flight of steep stairs! We've laughed at that a lot since then, not realizing she meant the "bath", not toilet.  In fact, using the various style toilets (including squat variety) has been one of the learning curves.

We've loved the gardens and decor outside their small living spaces.  The fish, produce, vegetable markets are so interesting and people are so friendly and helpful.   There are so many tiny shops as well as large  high-end clothing stores.  They dress so very fashionably here.  People are respectful and hard working.  We noticed workers in buildings across from one of our hotels at 11:00 pm.  And the subways were crowded at 10 pm.  

Outside of the large cities,  there is beautiful scenery with trees, mountains, rivers and lakes, and many rice fields..  

We're here in the rainy season and it is living up to its name.  Umbrellas everywhere.  Lots of people on bicycles, weaving through pedestrians even though there often doesn't seem to be a logical pattern.   Because people drive on left side of road we try to walk on left side of sidewalk but that doesn't mean others follow that pattern. We're just amazed more people don't run into each other, especially those who text and walk/bike!

There are just too many wonderful experiences to condense into a few words and pictures but at least you get a glimpse.  
 




Rice fields from train


Making octopus balls Linda had for lunch in one of hundreds of restaurants and shops in train station


 Tea Ceremony


Eating okonomiyaki--a Japanese pancake with meat and/or various fillings and seved on griddle at our table


Walkway in Samarai area



Eating soba noodles and tempura



With guide at recreated farm village 


Brown slippers for toilet which are different than red slippers for rest of house --
but take off slippers before entering bedroom with mat.  We often got confused!


Daily market with tons of stalls for fish and produce


Beautiful park in Takayama


 Largest oldest wooden thatched temple in Japan



Matsumoto castle




 Garden in temple area


Multiple food items for dinner at Japanese inn


Gold leaf bathroom





 Geisha house but no geishas

 

 
Our daily ritual also has been to get our "baby fix" when Kristen sends a picture, so I'll have to close with a recent week-old+ picture of Abigail--our reason for being in Japan.
Abigail

Saturday, June 15, 2013

Abigail


Saturday June 8
We had planned to take a trip to an Iris Garden on Saturday, and have dinner in Yokosuka with a co-worker of Kristen's, but Kristen had signs of labor starting so we decided we should stay close to the base.    


SUNDAY, JUNE 9 -- the longest, but then the best day ever!
Chris took Kristen to the hospital at 2:00 a.m. Sunday morning when her waters broke.  I joined them early in the morning.  And then we waited, and waited, and waited.  After 18 hour labor, when BabyG seemed stuck, they decided to do a Cesarean.  Within minutes, it seemed like, we had a baby!!!!!!!  Abigail Elena Guaydacan was born at 10:11 pm on June 9.  I got to hold her within the hour.  What an amazing, thrilling, awesome, joyous, miraculous event.  Such gratitude for a healthy baby.  All of the nurses and doctor were impressed she had open eyes and exploring the world almost instantly.  One nurse claimed she was the most beautiful baby she had ever seen, and she has helped deliver many babies!  Of course, I agree.   It was such an amazing experience.
Just After delivery

Kristen's first view

K & A meeting each other

Monday-Wed, June 10-12
I went to the hospital on Monday morning in time for Kristen's "celebration lunch" of steak and lobster!  The medical staff have been so excellent.  The nurses were very attentive through it all.  I then traveled on the Navy Base's airporter bus to Tokyo Narita Airport to meet Linda Carroll, and was able to guide us back by train to Yokosuka.  We got to our Navy Lodge hotel (very nice accomodations) by midnight.

On Tuesday, Kristen and Abigail were to come home from hospital so Linda and I made a couple dinners to have ready for Kristen & Chris.  We had a champagne toast with Abigail in our arms that night, and then a candlelight dinner.  Abigail is SOOOO PRECIOUS!!!!!  This is such a special, special time.

It was raining on Wednesday, so Linda and I mostly hung out where the "draw" was -- Abigail!  We love being able to hold her when Mommy is not needed. 
Abigail

Linda holding Abigail

Grandma holding grandbaby